Belgians go through an average of 250 pounds of potatoes a year—per person—and they’re passionate (some would say vehement) about the merits of their favorite friterie or, in Flemish, frituur. But Friterie Antoine gets a thumbs-up from almost everybody. It’s a little pavilion in the corner of a parking lot in the center of Brussels with red granite counters and wrought-iron frites holders bolted to the walls. This place is not only at the top of the heap, but it’s also a rare exception to the rule that framed newspaper photos of famous patrons (Bill Clinton and Mick Jagger, among others) mean second-rate food. Most Belgians eat their frites with mayonnaise, but the chef here shows off with a sauce menu running from Brazil (ketchup with pineapple) and Andalouse (tomato paste, chopped onion, lemon juice, red pepper, and mayonnaise) to Chinoise Piquante and classics like carbonnade (Flemish beer sauce).