There’s no denying it—this drink is a pain to make right and not good if made wrong. The key is in the shaking. The original drink, invented by Henry Ramos, a New Orleans bar owner, was executed by teams of “shaker boys” who would shake as hard as they could for as long as they could and then pass the shaker to the next in line. Unless you’ve got a willing group (or a lot of stamina), you’ll have a hard time achieving the silky texture that five minutes of hard shaking provides.
Pour into a cocktail shaker 1 tablespoon bar syrup [simple syrup], the juice of 1/2 lemon and 1/2 lime, 1 egg white, 1 tablespoon heavy cream, 1 teaspoon orange-flower water, and 3 ounces gin. Fill the shaker with cracked ice, shake vigorously for 5 minutes, and strain into an 8-ounce glass, adding a good dash of sparkling water.